Embroidery Stabilizers 101
- Nicole Lovelace
- May 2, 2015
- 4 min read
Embroidery stabilizers can be categorized into two main types: backers and toppers A backer is a piece of material that is hooped under the fabric you are going to embroider to make this fabric more stable. Embroidery backings prevent fabric puckering, fabric stretching and ruining of stitched in the washing machine.
There are 2 main types: cutaway and tearaway stabilizers. We will get into the specifics of each as we go on. Toppers are placed over the fabric (on top) you are going to embroider. Toppers keep stitches from sinking into fabrics that have a nap or pile. For example, towels, knits, fleece, corduroy, minky, burlap ect - embroidery toppers are a must. It's also nice to use topping even on embroidery-friendly fabric, when you want your design to stand out better. Embroidery toppers often resemble plastic wrap you'd use to keep your leftovers fresh. They're usually made out of gelatin based water soluble substance and easily dissolve in warm water once your embroidery is finished. These water soluble toppers are also called "wash-away", because they are washed away. If you frequent any of the forums or Facebook groups about embroidery/applique the short hand is often WSS (water soluable stabilitizer). Another type of embroidery topper is heat away, and they are removed with a hot iron. Stabilizing 101;
Choosing a backer:
A general rule is "if you wear it don't tear it". Garments that will be worn and washed in the washing machine hold up better with a cutaway stabilizer.
Stretchy and unstable fabrics (knits, t-shirts) work best with cutaway stabilizers because this type of backing can be removed by cutting it away without stretching the embroidered fabric in process. If you embroider on some kind of light-colored, light-weight cloth (like a T-shirt), be sure to use thin, translucent no show poly mesh backing. Fusible cutaway products are available and very convienient to keep stretchy fabrics in place and avoid over-stretching while hooping.
Stable woven fabrics usually work well with tearaway embroidery stabilizer because when you tear away the excess backing the fabric that is stable won't stretch or become deformed. Towels and canvas bags are especially great with tearaway because no stabilizer is left after the project is completed.
If you need the stabilizer to be removed completely (for example, if you embroider on organza, or create cut-work or freestanding lace), use strong woven water-soluble stabilizer, sometimes known as Vilene. Fabric-type water soluble stabilizer is preferable, because it practically doesn't stretch, hoops easily, and behaves like regular nonwoven fabric until you wash it away.
Choosing a topper: If you are embroiderying on towels, minky, fleece or other "fluffy" types of fabric, be sure to use topping film, to prevent stitches from sinking into the fabric. There are two different types of embroidery toppings available - ones that are washed away with water, and ones that are removed with hot iron. Using an starch spray with an iron before hooping fabric can also act as topper for fabrics such as knits. It will stabilize the stretch and prevent puckers.
The great part of heat-away topping is that you remove it without wetting your project. Keep in mind that fabrics that are sensitive to heat such as nylon bags should not be used with heat away toppers as you may ruin the base fabric.
Heat-away topping tips:
*If you're not sure whether your fabric supports iron temperature that is required to remove the topping - take a tiny test-piece of fabric, and try to iron it through a piece of paper.
*If a low quality heat-away backing is used, it may leave stains and unpleasant smell.
*NEVER use steam iron with heat-away topping.
*It's often better to put a piece of regular paper over the embroidery, and heat-away the topping through that piece of paper to protect your iron and your project.
Wash-away topping: Use wash-away topping every time that your fabric is not suitable for use with heat-away topping, and wetting your project is possible.
Wash-away topping tips:
Keep film in place by using a piece of clear office tape on the corners away from your stitching. This will prevent your WSS from puckering and keep your fingers away from fast needles.
To remove the water soluable stabilizer from your fabric pull the large pieces away from the stitches carefully so there is no damage to the embroidery or applique. They should not pull or distort the stitches.
Small pieces can be removed by placing a wet paper towel over the design and pressing with a hot iron. When you pull back the paper towel the remaining WSS should pull off with the paper towel.
Avoid putting a garment into the washer to remove full peices of WSS. This can leave residue on other parts of your item that may not come off no matter what you do. Remove as much of the WSS as you can before laundering.
Stabilizing metallic thread:
If you're using metallic thread, avoid 100% polyester embroidery backing. Try to use embroidery stabilizers with some natural component (cotton or poly-viscose). Natural machine embroidery stabilizers are usually softer, create less friction with embroidery needle and thread, and therefore you embroider with less thread breaks. This is correct for any thread, but is especially noticeable with metallics.
CAUTION: Never use steam when ironing with fusible stabilizers. Stabilizers will shrink and cause your project to pucker often to the point of an unusuable project.
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